How To Design A Flat Roof That Won'T Leak

Published Nov 09, 20
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How to Master build Roof Area in 6 Simple Steps

Step from the point on the blade to the point on the tongueit ought to be 14-7/16 inches (flat roof construction). Multiply this by the run of the structure. We're using 10 feet in this example, leaving out the overhang. The resulting figure is 144-1/2 inches. We add 12 inches for the overhang to get a last figure of 156-1/2 inches.

Examine the rafter board to determine if there is any curve or "crown" in the board. You ought to make this very first pattern rafter on the straightest board you can discover. If there is any curve in the board, lay out the rafter so the crown is up or facing away from you.

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( If the crown were to be positioned down, the roofing might ultimately sag.) Then set out the rafter as revealed on the next page. This example is for a roofing system with an 8/12 pitchPosition the square at the end of the rafter board, with the tongue on your left and facing away from you.

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Mark along the backside of the tongue. This is the plumb cut for the roofing ridge. Measure form the top of this line down the board to identify the line length, or length of the rafter, less the ridge board. This frequently is a 2-by or 1-1/2- inch board, so the measurement is less inches.

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Holding the square in the exact same position as before, mark down to the side of the tongue. This marks the plumb cut at the inside of your house wall for the notch (called a bird's mouth) to seat the rafter one the wall plate. Include the length of the overhang beyond this mark and mark it.

In the example revealed this is 12 inches. Cut the rafter at the ridge line and at the overhang line. Then hold the square on the plumb line that marks the bird's mouth. Identify the wall thickness or depth of the bird's mouth cut and make a mark - residential metal roofing. Cut the notch, initially with a handsaw or portable circular saw, and then finish the cut with a handsaw.

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Continue moving down the rafter and marking plumb cuts, consisting of any odd figures. One approach of laying out rafters with a square is called "stepping off." Make a replicate rafter from the pattern. metal roofing. Then lay the rafters out on a smooth, flat surface, with a 2-by between them at the ridge line.

You may want to test these on the structure prior to cutting the rest of the rafters. Once you make certain these two pattern rafters are correctly cut, mark them as patterns and mark and cut the required number of rafters. If the structure has hanging or "fly" rafters for the gable ends, cut them too.

Make sure you thoroughly follow the pattern rafter. A number of years ago I was building a two-story structure. One carpenter set out and began to cut the rafters. He ended up being ill from the severe heat of the day and another carpenter took control of for the last third of the rafters.

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I do not understand if the second carpenter didn't utilize the pattern rafter, or just wasn't as precise, but it was a costly error. The brand-new C.H. Hanson Pivot Square makes the chore of setting out a roofing rather easy. I want I had this tool a number of years and buildings ago.

It comes with its own durable belt holder that is also created to hold a carpenter's pencil and the direction pamphlet. The brand-new C.H. Hanson Pivot Square makes it eady to lay out rafters. this quality tool includes its own belt pouch and has dividers for the square, an instruciton manual and a carpenter's pencil.

Degrees and rise are marked on a blade connected to the rotating arm. With the common increase figures facing you, and the raised fence on the right, the bottom represents the base of the triangle (the run) and the ideal side the elevation (the rise). The long adjustable edge represents the hypotenuse of the triangle, or the line length.

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Merely change the square to the wanted pitch and lock in place with the knurled knob. You can then utilize the square to transfer the angle for the cut to the lumber. Or you can hold the square in location and use it as a strong guide for running a portable circular saw.

Figure out the pitch, then you can set a miter saw or compound miter saw to make cuts in degrees that conform to the preferred pitch. The Pivot Square can also be utilized to lay out pitches steeper than 12/12, along with to set out hip-valley rafters. These figures are figured out on the back side of the square.



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